Cross Borders

A frantic few days have seen us take four long buses, take in three countries, two border crossings and a brief flirtation with Argentina...

We left Tupiza with our three Salar companions in search of the Gauchos of Argentina. A short taxi ride down to the border had our driver insisting on picking up every waif and stray. When we more strongly insisted that we had booked the whole taxi (there were 5 of us with 5 large rucksacks in a standard MPV) he went into a childish strop and turned the short taxi ride into a long one!

After a slow but scenic taxi journey we made it safely to the border and with relative ease and some patient queuing made it through to Argentina. Country number three on our South American journey, and one earlier than first anticipated as we choose to go through Argentina, rather than take our chances at the notoriously difficult and corrupt Bolivia-Paraguay border.

Less than two hours into our Argentinian adventure and our coach was hauled over to the side of the road at the first Policia check point. It seems our coach had won the lottery and jackpot prize was a thorough search of everyone and everything! After waiting patiently on the coach at the side of the road watching the Policia strip down a VW golf to it's bear mettle it was our turn... hauled off the bus and made to collect all our luggage it was single file time waiting for the contents of our bags to be emptied out, inspected and in some cases laughed at. Dirty socks in tow and of course safely back on the bus (nothing to hide here officer) we continued our journey south to the city of Salta.

After the delights of Peru and Bolivia, Salta was a welcome change of pace. A true Latin American city which would be just at home inbetween Madrid and Barcelona than the Andes and the Atlantic. Large department stores, clean streets, wine bars, steak houses serving 'parradillas' (barbecued slabs of meat), dining Al Fresco and large central plazas. The only unwelcome delight is the price.... not only is Argentina substantially more expensive than it's Incan descendant counterparts, it is also substantially more expensive than last year, and the year before that! A true case of Inflation Inflation Inflation has led to average increased costs of 50% in two years, with accommodation up at the same rate and transportation up over 100%!

A pleasant enough city but spiralling costs and a dwindling budget had us scrambling for Paraguay! An almost day of rest had us leaving Salta the following evening on a night bus to Ascunsion, capital of Paraguay (via a three hour stopover at Resistencia bus depot).

Border crossing number two in 48 hours, and after a short slightly antagonising wait as customs held on to our passports (we have prior painful memories - see Copacabana fisherman) we were safely into country number four, and possibly to be our shortest entry and exit stamps.

Asuncion. A suprising city that felt more US than South American. Big cars, HUGE shopping centres and department stores, a one way grid system and lines of yellow taxis. This is no New York but after eating rice and potatoes with every meal for two months even Paraguay feels quite westernised. A return to lower altitudes had us breathing easy again and taking in a city in a year long celebration of it's bicentenary, 200 years of Independence. A couple of days without a bus was a welcome treat and the 32c heat meant a couple of days of taking it easy.

Our second night had us experience a true South American Capital observing it's national sport with a little more grace than the English do. The evening had TVs popping up at every street corner, taxi rank, hair dressers, restaurant and bar. Groups of people everywhere huddled together often around tiny 14 inch TV screesn to support their national football team take on bitter rivals Chile. An unfortunate score line for the Paraguayans but a great way for us to see the way a country of such Latin passion support their team, from huddled groups of taxi drivers to silenced scores of women at the hair dressers.

Next stop Iguazu Falls....

A&G