As Cold As Ice

Our flight took us to the Southern Patagonian town of El Calafate. Expecting freezing cold weather we were pleasantly surprised by a strong sun and low 20° temperatures. We checked into our hostel and started making plans for the Perito Moreno glacier, the star attraction of the region.

We did the 'alternative tour' of the glacier. By this it meant they take a different, or alternative route. So instead of taking the straight forward paved road they took a more off road approach along a longer gravel road. This however turned out be really rewarding as we stopped several times whenever any interesting wildlife was nearby. Along the way we saw plenty of eagles and condors hovering above the Patagonian Steppe, hares darting across the road and even a skunk. We also stopped at a ranch heavily populated by sheep, lamb and ram, as well as a guanaco and a very playful patagonian fox. Our guide also provided us with a lot of very interesting information on the history of Patagonia, from the forming of the Steppe millions of years ago to the European colonisation of the area which for thousands of miles is barren land.

Shortly though we joined the main road and an even shorter time later we got our first view of the highly impressive Perito Moreno glacier. We then took a short hike down to and along the shore of the lake Lago Argentino which is dotted with cobalt blue icebergs. On reaching our destination we took a boat up to the south wall of the glacier, and had the chance to grab some up close photos and view the glacier from the ground up. From that distance you can really see the different shades of blue and white that make up the 5km wide wall of ice. The different colours are made up of the content of minerals, and the varying compactness of the ice. The bluer the ice the more compact the ice. Whilst on the boat we were also lucky enough to see several large sheets of ice come sliding down off the front wall and go crashing into the lake. The sound of the ice cracking, the sight of a double decker bus sized sheet of ice falling, followed by the sound when it plunges into the water and the creation of a mini tidal wave all combine to create a stunning experience. You can't help but will the gigantic ice formation to collapse further for your own entertainment!

After the boat we stopped for lunch, luckily we had bough own so could skip the queues for the overpriced and underportioned food that was on offer at the only restaurant! Then it was time to hit the walkways and get a top down view of this frozen natural phenomenon. From here you can see the true size of the glacier as the front wall gives way to over 30km of fragmented ragged spires of towering ice that have made their way down the mountain as a river of ice. The Perito Moreno is a long way short of being the largest glacier in Patagonia (although it covers a greater surface area than Buenos Aires), but its stable and easily accessible hence the paved road, restaurant and walkways. From atop the walkways you can really appreciate the size, and stop, watch, and wait for 'just one more' sheet of ice to come crashing down off the glacier.

As the afternoon went on blue skies and sunshine become ever more present. The hats and gloves came off and it became somewhat strangely hot to be positioned so close to such a huge landmass of ice! Our first glacier but hopefully more to come as we jump countries and push further south into Chilean Patagonia!