As we had been in a camper for a month we were pretty far removed from current affairs and were completely unaware of the devastating floods that had hit Nadi just 10 days previously. Fortunately for us we extended our time in New Zealand by two weeks otherwise we could well have found ourselves camped out on a roof waiting for a dingy rescue boat like the locals and those that had arrived just two weeks before us! Making our way in from the airport we could see the after effects of the flooding and the destruction that the worst flooding in recent history had caused.
From our hostel we spent a brief couple of nights deciding what we wanted to do. We decided to get off the beaten track and skip the tourist islands and set meal plans of the Manucas and Yasawas and instead head north and east across the 180° meridian line in search of our own bit of paradise.
First off was a trip on the local bus, one of the old American school buses with canvassed plastic for windows. After a beautiful day spent lounging by the beach we were now making our way out of Nadi in torrential rain, no sitting by the windows unless you want to get soaked. We headed East along the south coast of Vita Levu (Fiji's largest and hence titled 'mainland') to the Coral Coast. Here we spent a couple a nights at 'The Beachouse', a nice resort styled hostel where we were able to do some sea kayaking and paddleboarding all served up with scones and a nice afternoon tea (you have to love the British influence on the Commonwealth sometimes).
From here we continued our journey east to Suva, the capital of Fiji. After a few hours looking around here (not too much to see) we set off on a 20 hour ferry which would take us to several islands including the second biggest island and then our destination, Tavenuni, Fiji's third biggest island. Here in Taveuni we really started to get our taste of the real Fiji we had come looking for. Cruising along the mud tracks in the back of a 4x4 with the local children coming out of their houses to wave and say hello. This was a really rewarding and a great experience after the rigours of such a long ferry ride, and it was nice to finally arrive at our hostel with the sunshining.
We spent a few nights in Taveuni where we played volleyball in the day and sat on the floor in the evenings listening to locals from the village singing and playing guitar and of course drinking plenty of the local tipple, kava. Kava is the root of a type of pepper tree pounded down into a powder and then mixed with water and served from a giant bowl placed on the floor in the middle of the group. Its quite an 'interesting' taste which we couldn't really describe as nice, but the social interaction and cultural aspects associated with it are fantastic.
Whilst on Taveuni we took a very muddy hike up into the mountains to visit some waterfalls. It was so muddy and wet at times that we needed to go bare foot and ankle deep in the mud to get up there. It was certainly a testing experience for our soft European feet, but we had the chance to wash the mud off at each of the three waterfalls we saw. Each one allowed for some good jumps where it was possible to do some from 30-40 feet down into the water below.
We also took a boat out to the tiny honeymoon island where we spent some time snorkeling amongst the corals. We got to see really cool little tropical fish including some Nemo's and numerous other unidentifiable creatures. After the snorkeling we had a bit of time to enjoy the sun and the white sand of the island and immerse ourselves in the Fiji which we had come in search of. That evening we were cooked up a 'Lovo Lovo'. This is the most traditional Fijian dish and includes all manner of meat, fish and vegetables cooked slowly under the ground on hot rocks. It ended up as a buffet of epic proportions that had more food than we could even get around to sampling. That evening we cracked open another traditional Fijian beverage, the dark Bounty Rum. At 58 percent proof, and drank after a few bowls of kava we can vouch that this stuff will really knock you out! From here on I think we'll be sticking to the much smoother and great tasting Fiji Gold beer.
From Taveuni we will be making our way by boat to another island which lies east of the 180° meridian line. However due to some clever swerving of the international date line we don't need to go backwards a day in order to do this!
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